May 28, 2011 Rabe de las Calzadas to Itero de la Vega

Left Rabe at 06:45 after toast breakfast and walked nonstop to Hornillos del Camino. Met Luke and girls there as well as Philippe and Roberto. Happy reunion! Left Hornillos with rumors that Rocky had been there also that night. Luke and the girls heard she’d been there but hadn’t seen her.

Walked from Hornillos to Hontanas with Lila and had a great talk. Nonstop talk and lots of laughter.

Arrived Hontanas and enjoyed lunch with Luke, Lila, Gal and three Germans. Nick, David, and Lucas. Decided it was time to strike out on my own without Luke and crowd, so left with plan to overnight at Castrojeriz. Arrived hot and tired there. Passed first albergue at beginning of town because didn’t like its looks. Discovered next 2 albergues were completo. Decided to strike out for next village, 10 kms away, but stupidly did not buy water before I left town. I realized the next hill is huge and I began to hope that there was a lot of water in my camelbak. Sign said the climb was 1050 meters and it felt like it. At top of hill a group of Italian bikers was resting and they gave me water after I asked, with much kindness. Kept walking and saw that after hill was a desolate stretch of at least 10 km. Continued walking without shade and without water. Bikers passed me just as I spotted the fuente and asked if I was ok. Very nice. Stopped at the fuente for +/- 20 minutes to air out socks and rest my feet and drink drink drink.

Arrived at San Nicolas de Puentetitero (Hospital de Pelegrinos) and was turned away by the hospitalero. I must’ve looked very downcast as in a few minutes he told me I could stay! Said I could sleep on mat on floor — which was just fine — and sent me to the showers to give me time to get ready for dinner. Had a foot washing ceremony followed by a lovely dinner and wine drinking contest and grand/funny Italian toast. Met 3 French women: Claire, Flora and Cecile. Also Finnish woman with excellent French and English named Sukkar. Very quiet setting on quiet side of river from Itero de la Vega. Cloud and Tom here along with Michelle and Robert. Very satisfying meal and general “feel” of albergue. Everyone is happy and satisfied. The pilgrim hospital (albergue) is small and quaint. A beautiful camino experience for all the normal reasons, plus the general ambience that is about joy, faith, and love. This all felt more genuine as they had relented from sending me away!

As David the hospitalero left he put me in charge of the albergue. If a pilgrim comes along I am to let him/her in. The door is never locked, David says, and breakfast is at 06:30. Long walk of 38 kms today, but ended in joy.

2 thoughts on “May 28, 2011 Rabe de las Calzadas to Itero de la Vega

  1. Dear Sandy,

    I just had to leave a note as I ended up finding myself on your camino! I am the “Finnish woman” even if my name is not Sukkar (sounds almost like suger to me) but Sirkku (which is the name of a bird in Finnish, I think it’s Emberiza in Latin).
    I ended up spending my evening in the Internet as I’m alredy getting impatient for my next camino in April/May this year, Via de la Plata. That’s in fact how i found your site. Even if I, too, cannot make it all in one like I did the Frances, as I only have two weeks. But unlike you, I’ll begin in Seville and go so far as I get and then come back for the rest another time.
    Turns out that I walked the Frances at the same time as you but apparently with a little more pace as I left from St jean on the 14th of May and arrived in Santiago on the 11th of June.
    But apparently we walked one after the other on the 28th, as I, too, came from Rabé de los Calzados that day! Only according to my journal (not in the Internet even if I had my laptop with me and wrote it there I left a little earlier in the morning and was one of those who were already waiting on the bench with theothers you mention when San Nicolas opened. What a coincidence I found you out! From this on it will be double fun to read your entries.
    With warm wishes for your Italian cammino,
    Srkku
    PS Thanks for the commendation for my languages.

  2. What a treat to hear from you! I’m glad you found my blog — it’s been fun to keep a record of my pilgrimages and hopefully it’s been useful to others, as well.

    You’re smart to start in Seville. I would’ve done the same except I was aiming at the Holy Day on July 25, with only two weeks’ vacation. That, plus the reputation for the VdlP being extremely hot in midsummer kept me away from the southern stretch. I will certainly walk it at some future date, so I’ll look forward to any advice you might have to share.

    I’m very glad we’ve reconnected. Many blessings to you in your journeys.

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