May 28, 2011 Rabe de las Calzadas to Itero de la Vega

Left Rabe at 06:45 after toast breakfast and walked nonstop to Hornillos del Camino. Met Luke and girls there as well as Philippe and Roberto. Happy reunion! Left Hornillos with rumors that Rocky had been there also that night. Luke and the girls heard she’d been there but hadn’t seen her.

Walked from Hornillos to Hontanas with Lila and had a great talk. Nonstop talk and lots of laughter.

Arrived Hontanas and enjoyed lunch with Luke, Lila, Gal and three Germans. Nick, David, and Lucas. Decided it was time to strike out on my own without Luke and crowd, so left with plan to overnight at Castrojeriz. Arrived hot and tired there. Passed first albergue at beginning of town because didn’t like its looks. Discovered next 2 albergues were completo. Decided to strike out for next village, 10 kms away, but stupidly did not buy water before I left town. I realized the next hill is huge and I began to hope that there was a lot of water in my camelbak. Sign said the climb was 1050 meters and it felt like it. At top of hill a group of Italian bikers was resting and they gave me water after I asked, with much kindness. Kept walking and saw that after hill was a desolate stretch of at least 10 km. Continued walking without shade and without water. Bikers passed me just as I spotted the fuente and asked if I was ok. Very nice. Stopped at the fuente for +/- 20 minutes to air out socks and rest my feet and drink drink drink.

Arrived at San Nicolas de Puentetitero (Hospital de Pelegrinos) and was turned away by the hospitalero. I must’ve looked very downcast as in a few minutes he told me I could stay! Said I could sleep on mat on floor — which was just fine — and sent me to the showers to give me time to get ready for dinner. Had a foot washing ceremony followed by a lovely dinner and wine drinking contest and grand/funny Italian toast. Met 3 French women: Claire, Flora and Cecile. Also Finnish woman with excellent French and English named Sukkar. Very quiet setting on quiet side of river from Itero de la Vega. Cloud and Tom here along with Michelle and Robert. Very satisfying meal and general “feel” of albergue. Everyone is happy and satisfied. The pilgrim hospital (albergue) is small and quaint. A beautiful camino experience for all the normal reasons, plus the general ambience that is about joy, faith, and love. This all felt more genuine as they had relented from sending me away!

As David the hospitalero left he put me in charge of the albergue. If a pilgrim comes along I am to let him/her in. The door is never locked, David says, and breakfast is at 06:30. Long walk of 38 kms today, but ended in joy.

May 27, 2011 Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas


Nave of Burgos cathedral.

Short day. Stayed at Burgos to enjoy cathedral tour along with Monique. Spectacular. Definitely on eof the most beautiful cathedrals I have ever seen. Left town about noon and walked 10 km to Rabe de las Calzadas. Stayed at lovely albergue along with Merila, Natalie, Susan and Monique. Great dinner of tortilla and good conversation. Getting the feeling afterward that Susan and Natalie no longer approve of me. Agree with Monique that I will go on ahead as I walked quite a bit faster.