About Sandy Brown

Pilgrim trek writer and guide from Seattle USA living in Lucca, Italy. See more at www.sandybrownbooks.com

This Can’t be Italy

Posted on May 18, 2013 by Sandy Brown

May 18, 2013 — Spoleto to Ceselli

Our room for the night in Spoleto had three beds — two singles and one double — and somehow I managed to score the double! That meant a luxurious night in a bed which was not only big, but comfortable. I slept well.

We awoke at 6:30 to discover the water was back on, so it was showers all around, followed by a breakfast of brioches (croissants) and Nutella, which seems delightfully omnipresent. By 8:30 we were out the door, then off to the ATM for cash, then up to the top of town to find the waymarks for our route.

At the sunny Duoma Piazza we discovered the road blocked due to more filming of the Terence Hill show. Next to the policeman who told us to find another way to our goal was our friend Daniele, with Atan. He was eagerly awaiting Terence Hill’s arrival so he could get an autograph, and it was great to share a final “arrivaderci!”

Our detour led us handily to the necessary waymarks and we were soon climbing east of the piazza toward the castle above. The castle sits on a circular mountain above the city and we walked around its base to the side opposite the city, where we discovered an enormous stone bridge that stretched across the canyon to the next mountain. Our waymarks directed us across the bridge and we made the most of the acrobatic walk, snapping photos of the wooded mountains and distant valleys.

At the end of the bridge the signs directed us to a steep, gravel path that switched back and forth up the mountain, climbing 300 meters (900 ft) in two kilometers (1.4 miles) through thick forest to the tiny settlement of Monteluco. Here we found a hotel with an outdoor bar, where we enjoyed an orange juice and rest, well-earned after our tiring climb.

As we paid the bill, Sebastian pointed out an old motorcycle sitting across from the bar. “Come,” the bartender said, and he led us back to his shop/showroom full of restored and nearly-restored Italian bikes. We recognized Moto Guzzi, Vespa, Piaggio, and many others. After admiring his motorcycles and thanking him for the tour we headed along the path and discovered a small, medieval Franciscan monastery from the year 1218. We toured the tiny monks’ cells, met a young friar, and asked him to stamp our pilgrim credentials, a task to which he cheerfully obliged.

We headed again to the trail, knowing we were only part way through with today’s ascent. After first missing our marker near a field below the monastery we rejoined the gravel path up the mountain. By noon we reached the summit of our climb, Valico Castel del Monte, nearly 500 meters (1500 ft) and just 7 km (4.5 miles) from our starting point in Spoleto. As we shared a lunch of bread sticks, tomatoes, cherries and cheese looking down on a view of green mountains and rich valleys we congratulated ourselves on how quickly our legs were at pilgrim strength, allowing us a big climb in good time with little pain or weariness. After four days we felt ready to climb anything.

For today’s hike it was all downhill from here. We walked down and down, by vast vistas of mountains and valleys, through the ghost village of Sensati, then past a cemetery and the tiny town of Nevi. Finally at about 3:30 we reached Ceselli and were waved into the town’s single hotel, “Il Ruscello,” by it’s proprietor. Famished as we were by now we accepted his offer to take us to Schreggino, where we had beer and ice cream for snacks and bought pasta for dinner. Arriving back in Ceselli we had showers, did laundry, then cooked our dinner, which we enjoyed over a bottle of the local vintage.

Most surprising of the day was the realization that the miles of green mountains we’d enjoyed were Italy. I’d always thought Italy was made up of dry grass, barren hills and lone cypress trees pointing to the sky. Turns out this part of Italy could just as easily be the hills of North Carolina or France or Wisconsin. Today was a beautiful experience in joy and beauty in a warm, green place with dear friends. A day that began in an annoying detour ended in a gracious meal of pasta and wine and loving conversation.

Who in the World is Terence Hill?

Posted on May 17, 2013 by Sandy Brown

Goodbye to Trevi

May 17, 2013 — Trevi to Spoleto

“What do you do when it rains?” asked the skeptical American tourist, seated across from us at breakfast this morning at our hotel in Trevi. “We have rain gear!” we replied cheerfully. As we left the hotel an hour later, the same American waved to us from the dry comfort of his rental car as he passed by with his wipers busily clearing rain from his windshield.

The weather reports had predicted rain for today, and they nailed it. It came on and off for the first hour of our walk — once again through olive groves — then it came with a windy fury after a couple of hours. Within seconds of the worst deluge we were discovering the limits of our rain gear. I had started the day with just my rain jacket, but during the hardest downpour we found a garage and ducked in so I could put on my long pants (to keep rain out of my boots), my long sleeved T-shirt, and my down sweater for beneath my dripping rain jacket.

The torrent continued as the trail led us down to the valley floor, and after a left turn onto the highway we found a bar where we took off our wet gear and warmed ourselves with coffee and hot croissants. Soon we were joined by our four French friends we’d met in Assisi, and also a quiet Italian couple we’d seen several times along the way. All of us took refuge on the covered patio as we waited for the rain to subside.

After about an hour the rain slackened and we all headed out, just a little drier than before. We walked along the highway, then turned right onto a quiet, paved track alongside an irrigation ditch. Here we met one of the most interesting characters from any of my caminos, Daniele Marini of Italy, and his dog Atan.

Daniele and Aran, pilgrims to the world

Daniele is a tiny 25-year old with a quick and warm smile who’s off on a 10-12 year walk around the world. He’s already walked from his home to Rome, Barcelona, Santiago and other places. He’s now heading to Rome, then is off to Sardinia, France, Germany, then Asia and Africa, followed by North and South America. He subsists solely on the generous offerings of strangers and the occasional odd job as a bartender or laborer. Today he is heading to Spoleto because Terrence Hill is there filming a TV show.

When he told me this, my first question was, “Who in the world is Terence Hill?” Daniele and Sebastian were shocked that I didn’t know this famous European movie star. I quickly consulted Wikipedia and discovered that I have not seen a single movie in the Terence Hill filmography, not even Miami Supercops or I Quatro del Ave Maria or Nobody Hits like Don Camillo with his sidekick Bud Spencer. Apparently I know nothing about movies. 😉 When I return to the US I’ll begin a raid of the Netflix archives to find out what all the fuss is about.

Engrossed in conversation with Daniele and seeing no waymarks for awhile we started to get nervous about directions to Spoleto. Since the rain had stopped and the town was clearly visible on the hillside ahead we shifted to the highway which went in that direction and in an hour or two were having lunch (our treat) with Daniele and Atan at a nice outdoor lunch spot in Spoleto.

We walked up to the Duomo at the top of town, where Daniele had heard Terence Hill would be filming. As we arrived we passed films crews staked out all over the Duomo Piazza and Daniele pointed out a blue movie star’s chair emblazoned with the name, “Terence Hill.” Since our goal was the Duomo, not the movie star, we said a fond farewell to Daniele and headed into the beautiful church.

Just as Jacqueline and I were finishing our tour of the cathedral, Sebastian rushed through the front door and said, “We have to leave now! The film crews are clearing the Piazza!” Sure enough, we were instructed to leave right away, and as we walked off the piazza we noticed an older man in a black priest’s cassock wearing a black baseball cap. “That’s him!” said Sebastian. “That’s Terence Hill!” I took a quick photo of the back of his head as stage hands instructed me in Italian, “No fotos!” and as we turned the corner off the piazza I noticed Daniele and his dog, discretely situated across the piazza, out of view of the cameras.

Finished with our brush with fame we headed to a hotel we’d passed along the way and were shown to a nice room with three beds, our home for the night. Jacqueline and Sebastian, full of energy, headed out for sightseeing while I snoozed for a couple of hours under the warm covers of my bed.

Sebastian awakened me at 7:30 for dinner and we made our way down to the hotel dining room. After ordering, we noticed the hotel owner seating a wiry young Italian man — Daniele! He joined us at our table and told us about how a nice woman in the Duomo Piazza had inquired about his dog and he’d told her he had no place to sleep for the night. “Come and stay in my hotel,” she said. So now we know how Daniele will make his way around the world — on the kindness of strangers, his friendly smile, and people’s love of dogs.

We voted Jacqueline to be first in the shower, but she immediately noticed there was no water coming from the tap. Checking with the desk, we learned that all human and canine guests will have to wait until the morning for the hotel’s main water line to be fixed. So while this entertaining day included the occasional mendicant hiker and Italian movie star, tonight there would be no showers or washing of clothes for our little pilgrim fellowship.

: Goodbye to Trevi

: Three packs for three pilgrims

: A respite from the rain

: Our French fellow pilgrims

: Walking along the road toward Spoleto

: Daniele and Aran, pilgrims to the world

: Approaching Spoleto

: Bridge into Spoleto

: Interior of Spoleto church

: From left: Jacqueline, Sebi and Daniele at lunch

: Spoleto vista

: Spoleto’s cathedral

: Interior, Spoleto cathedral

: Apse, Spoleto Cathedral

: Spoleto piazza from cathedral steps

: Terence Hill, rear view (man in cap)

Ancient Villas, Australians, and Belgian Yoga Ladies

Posted on May 16, 2013 by Sandy Brown

Town Hall at Foligno

May 15, 2013 — Spello to Trevi

After covering 20 km in six and a half hours here we are, enjoying a cheese and beer snack in our four star hotel in the beautiful hill town of Trevi.

The day started with a breakfast of croissants and Nutella in the dining room of our Spello hotel. We visited in a combination of English and French with two Belgian ladies who were pleasantly surprised by our plan to walk to Rome. They’re scouting out the walk themselves for a future trip. We lingered over coffee since it was raining outside, then said goodbye and began our walk in rain gear down through the cobbled streets of medieval Spello to the busy roads at the valley floor below.

The well-marked path took us along the hillside through olive groves and small farms for several kilometers, then we rejoined the busy streets as we neared the center of Foligno. The rain let up, and we ditched our rain gear to keep cool in the warm air. In this portion of the day’s walk, often there were sidewalks, but sometimes we shared the quieter streets with the tiny Italian cars and mini-trucks.

Thankfully, central Foligno is a pedestrian-only zone and we enjoyed a coffee break in the main square with a view of the beautiful church, the Duomo of Foligno. As we chatted and sipped our coffee a gentleman next to us asked in a soft, Australian accent where we were from. We described our current adventure and past walks and he was surprised at our plan to walk all the way to Rome. Soon he and his wife were describing their adventure — they are here in Italy after a two-month cruise from Australia to Japan to India and on to the Mediterranean. “We’re ready to go home now,” said the man. “Yes,” said his wife, “so we can begin planning our next trip!”

Lovely vista of Trevi

We left central Foligno, to clouds but no rain, then ducked into a tiny pizzeria for a quick slice in order to avoid a sudden shower. The road then took us up into the foothills, once more among the olive trees, for a mostly gentle climb to the outskirts of Trevi. As we walked past a small, freshly mowed meadow, we noticed our two Belgian friends stretched out on the grass in yoga poses. We said, “Bonjour!” but a “Namaste!” might have been better. The ladies waved and shouted with cheerful smiles.

We were a little disappointed that the road once more turned steeply up, our legs are not quite yet recovered from yesterday’s grueling climb and descent. We were rewarded, though, with frequent vistas of the panoramic city of Trevi, our goal for the day.

We stopped at the Tourist Information office in an ancient villa on the outskirts of town and the friendly young woman in her office under 17th century frescoes found us a room with three beds in a four-star hotel for just 60 Euros per night, including breakfast.

That was a bargain too good to pass up, so soon we were settled into our room at the top of a spiral staircase, enjoying a snack of cheese, crackers and beer at our fancy hotel. Ahhhh. The life of a pilgrim!

: Saying goodbye to Spello

: Jacqueline and Sebastian in the lead with packs covered against the threat of rain

: Entering Foligno

: Town Hall at Foligno

: Foligno’s Duomo

: Interior of Foligno’s Duomo

: The beautiful dome in Foligno’s Duomo

: Another exterior view of Foligno’s Duomo

: City streets of Foligno

: More Foligno streets

: Surprised to find a condom machine outside the pharmacy for 24 hour access

: Sebi and Jacqueline push on toward Trevi

: First views of Trevi

: Beautiful track into town

: Trevi’s big church

: Lovely vista of Trevi

: Trevi as we approach

: Stairway to our pilgrim accommodations in Trevi

: Trevi church interior

: Trevi church exterior from city streets

“The First Day of Pain”

Posted on May 15, 2013 by Sandy Brown

Today’s second chocolate croissant.

May 14, 2013 — Assisi to Spello

To me, a chocolate croissant is the perfect food to start a day of hiking — buttery-sweet calories with a chocolate center. Knowing that we had a 700 meter climb followed by a 900 meter descent ahead of us, I ordered two — guilt-free at breakfast, plus an orange juice and two coffees. I’d need all the energy I could get for this walk through the mountains above Assisi to the town of Spello.

Jacqueline and Sebastian ambled down to the cafe below our hotel at about 7:30, and after their breakfast and a few words with some French pilgrims we headed out at about 8:00 under a blue Assisi sky.

The blue and yellow waymarks led us up above town, so soon we were looking down on the ancient fortress that looms over Assisi. We realized that today’s route would lead us through the forested mountains above the town, likely giving us many vistas of the flat, green valley below.

Looking across to the fortress above Assisi

And so, we started walking up. Up through pine forests, up through thick brush, up past woodsmen with chainsaws. Up, up, up. An hour later we were certain we’d reached the top, then it was down a little ways and up, up again. I led the way at first, Jacqueline unusually slow, but when we finally reached the top, Jacqueline took the lead in the more difficult downhills. Most of the path was single track on sharp gravel, but some was also on the asphalt pavement of several remote, mountain roads. To our right were continuous views of the vast valley far below.

Video of the view from our hike to Spello

At about noon, tired from the climbs and descents, we stopped for lunch at a small picnic area off the trail. Last night we’d bought some cheese, crackers and cherry tomatoes and we feasted on these as we rested our weary feet. Here we were passed by a local Assisi couple out for a few days’ hike. Then the trail led steeply down the mountain through olive orchards, finally meandering to the hill town of Spello.

Looking down on the hill town of Spello, today’s goal

We weren’t certain if we’d stay in Spello or head the extra 7km to Foligno, but when we found the Albergo Il Cacciatore, with its lovely terrace and views of the valley, our evening plans were set. A beer, laundry, showers and a big spaghetti dinner would be perfect for these tired pilgrims. As Sebastian summarized the day over an afternoon beer, “Today was our first day of pain.” But what a lovely, painful day it was.

Postscript: we walked down through town in the afternoon to do laundry at the automat and get groceries for tomorrow. Then it was a tasty dinner of pasta with wild asparagus and chicken in a white wine sauce. Off to bed then, with dreams of a short walk on flat ground tomorrow.

: Fortress above Assisi

: These blue and yellow way marks with the keys denote the Via Francesco/Via Roma in Umbria

: Convent below, but the trail misses it.

: Red and white way mark shows one version of the way to Spello.

: Way mark map shows the extended climb possible to get to the top of the mountain above Assisi

: Sebastian and Jacqueline, valley below.

: Sebastian and I consult Google Maps on my iPhone

: Break in the tree cover for power lines allows a vista of the valley

: Beautiful valley past Assisi

: Double track trails between Assisi and Spello

: Great, double track trails downhill.

: First glimpse of Spello in the distance

: Spello getting closer

: Spello, with double way mark sign

: View of the valley from our Spello hotel, Il Cacciatore

Nice town you got here, St. Francis

Posted on May 14, 2013 by Sandy Brown

May 13, 2013 — Assisi, Umbria, Italy

The first thing I noticed about Italy when I awoke just before noon today was how much different it smells from Spain. There is a spicy, kind of sagey smell to Italy and as we looked down into the valley below Assisi I imagined the smell emanated from the countless, verdant orchards and farms below.

Yep, I woke at noon. The jet lag was responsible, and maybe the cold I’ve nursed for the last ten days. My kind friends, Sebastian and Jacqueline, sneaked out quietly this morning so I could get some extra shut-eye in preparation for the many miles ahead.

After an early afternoon shower I headed out to coffee and soon saw Sebi and Jacqueline walking up the hill toward the cafe near our pension. We paused for a breakfast slash lunch and then headed out for tours of Assisi’s amazing churches.

First stop was nearby San Rufino, then off to Santa Chiara with its relics of Francis and Clare. Then to San Damiano where Francis heard his mission to “rebuild the church.” From there we crossed town to the spectacular Basilica of San Francesco. When I was here in 1999 the upper church was closed for earthquake repairs. This time it was open and the historic 13th c. frescoes lived up to their billing. They depict in stark medieval style the important scenes from the life and death of St. Francis and the overall sense is of ancient, otherworldly mystery and power. The feeling deepened as we made our way to the lower church with its tombs of Francis and his friends.

Three pilgrims in front of our first waymark for the Via di San Francesco

After walking the town we stopped in true pilgrim style for beers and conversation. Seated next to us in the cafe were a delightful couple, Margo and Carol, from Illinois. They’re touring Italy with a jolly bus group from the States which we happened to meet later at dinner.

Following our meal it was back to Camere Carli for showers and sleep in advance of our first day of walking. Tomorrow’s goal: 25 km to Foligno, or if necessary, just 17 km to Spello.

Cheers to friends who are following us via FB and this blog! We love you and are thankful for the many joyful wishes and prayers for a safe and fun camino 2013.

: Jacqueline and Sebastian study the route ahead.

: San Rufino, just below our room.

: Main upper piazza of Assisi

: Street Scene Assisi

: Narrow and beautiful Assisi street

: View into the valley below Assisi

: Santa Chiara holds Clare and Francis relics.

: Beautiful dome of Santa Chiara

: View from our window at Camere Carli

: Street scene

: View to the castle above Assisi

: Interior, San Damiano

: Exterior, San Damiano, downhill from Assisi.

: San Damiano window with St. Francis preaching to all creatures.

: Street scene by Santa Chiara

Ready and waiting

Posted on May 12, 2013 by Sandy Brown

I can’t believe it’s finally here. Departure day.
Over the last week I started to count the time remaining by the number of tasks left. On Friday I finished packing, so this weekend it came down to: Baptism, done. Sermons, done. Premarital counseling appointment, done. Then finally that odd feeling came over me — what have I forgotten?
I now realize the deeper meaning the what have I forgotten actually represents. It’s really saying, I can’t believe I’m walking out the door with only a 10-pound pack on my back and a month to journey far away from home. As with every pilgrimage I’ve walked, this slow adventure means briefly “forgetting” almost everything comfortable and familiar and becoming happy with simple accommodations, scant privacy, aching feet, and a distant destination that appears slowly to tear-filled eyes and a joyful heart.
I will miss everything about home, and I will cherish everything new while I’m away. I’ll step on the plane in a few moments, bound for Rome, giving thanks for Gail and home and church and friends, and I will trust myself once more to the Pilgrim Road which rises to meet me.

At the Seattle airport, awaiting flights to Amsterdam then Rome. May 12, 2013

Just three weeks left — time to pack for the Via San Francesco

Posted on April 23, 2013 by Sandy Brown

Planned itinerary of the Via San Francesco 2013.

Even as a season of camino-walking begins in Spain I’m starting to prepare for something new and different — a camino in Italy to follow in the footsteps of St. Francis of Assisi. It’s an interesting year to take this walk, with the papacy of Francis bringing renewed attention to the simple 12th century friar of Umbria.

The trip is full of unknowns. None of our group — Sebastian, Jacqueline, Andreas and I — speak Italian. We’ll be relying on my Spanish to get us through. We lack a decent and current guidebook — the most recent one is a 2010 version in German. We’re not even sure about accommodations. We’ve heard rumors of monastery hostels with sheets and pillows, but don’t really know about reservations necessary or even whether we should bring our sleeping bags as backup. We’ll depend on promises of warm Italian weather to keep us from freezing at night. We’re also hearing of steep climbs in some places, a requirement when visiting several of those beautiful Italian hill towns that look so pretty — from a distance.

Without a sleeping bag I’ll likely get a smaller backpack to carry. Likely something in the 35L range, like the Osprey Stratos 36. This is 15 +/- liters smaller than my previous camino packs which, without a sleeping bag, should be fine.

I’ve also thought a lot about boots and have decided to wear my Treksta Evolution Mid-GTX. This is a highly-rated mid-high lightweight hi-tech boot that, while made with Gore-Tex, should still be fairly cool with thin, wool socks. I’ve worn these boots over the last year in walks around town and they’re very comfy. The waterproof feature hopefully won’t be put to use.

Most everything else will be tested-tried-and-true gear from previous caminos. The only other exception being a decent hiking map for the GPS function on my iPhone. I’m still looking for that — but am also doing my best to trust the outdated German guidebook.

St. Francis, here we come!

The hardy band begins to assemble and plan for our trip

Posted on January 11, 2013 by Sandy Brown

With the inclusion of dear Camino 2011 friend, Andreas, our Via San Francesco group now number four hardy and experienced pilgrims. Each is known for his or her own unique strengths:

Jacqueline — Walks at the “Austrian pace” which we’ve learned is fastest among all pilgrim nationalities;
Sebastian — Provides the humor — often understandable to non-Germans, and also makes us aware of all fire fighting technology seen along the way;
Andreas — Amazes all with his mastery of all things Tolkien, as well as his musical gifts and friendly spirit; and
Me — The éminence grise who supplies wisdom — whether it’s welcome or not — and who obsessively insists on walking into any church that happens to have an unlocked door.

Here’s my one photo with all our 2013 pilgrims together in one place. From left: Jacqueline, Catia, Nikki, Andreas, moi, Sebastian, Annina, Alex.

As well as setting the pace, Jacqueline has been the primary researcher for our walk, hunting down blogs, websites and the occasional (though rare) travel guide. This task has devolved to Jacqueline since most of the materials are in German. She’s set up a plan for us that follows this itinerary of a fairly disparate group of resources, from websites like this for guidebooks like this. Next month the newest edition of the primary guidebook, by Angela Serrachioli, will be published. As with the Camino de Santiago the best guidebooks seem to be in German. So having two German/English speakers (plus Andreas speaks German pretty well) will be an important plus.

Right now our daily itinerary looks like this:

Assisi – Spello (24km)
Spello – Trevi (14km)
Trevi – Spoleto (18km or 28km?)
Spoleto – Ceselli (16km)
Ceselli – Piediluco (27 km)
Piediluco – Poggio Bustone (21km)
Poggio Bustone – Rieti (18km)
Rieti – Poggio San Lorenzo (21km)
Poggio San Lorenzo – Pontecelli di Scandriglia (26km)
Pontecelli di Scandriglio – Monterotondo (28km)
Monterotondo – Monte Sacro (18km)
Monte Sacro – St. John in Lateran – St. Peter in Vatican

However it’s very likely we’ll head to Poggio Bustone, Terminillo, Piediluco and La Foresta which are important St. Francis sites and apparently in quite beautiful territory. These are off the track, though, which means we’ll either walk them twice (to and from) or find transport to take us one way or the other.

In the next few days I’ll buy airline tickets, plus I’ll read a couple of the new biographies of St. Francis that just this week were reviewed in the New Yorker. Four months of waiting (sigh) and planning (smile).

Apologies to St. James, but this year we’re off to see St. Francis

Posted on December 25, 2012 by Sandy Brown

Fresco by Giotto at Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi.

Dear St. James (Santiago),

You’ve been a great friend over the past years, but this year I must apologize in advance — I’m following St. Francis. Will you forgive me?

I’d like to blame it on Sebastian and Jacqueline, but in truth I’m partly to blame myself. When the idea was proposed (by them) to walk from St. Francis’ town of Assisi to Rome, at first I wasn’t sure. I knew I’d miss you (um, and the wine and the tortilla and the menu del peregrino and the Cilantro), which would be sad. But I knew, too, that this walk from Assisi to Rome would be beautiful and meaningful and something of an adventure. Not many people are walking this way. There’s not even a guidebook for the walk in English.

Now, don’t get all “Santiago Matamoros” on me. I knew you’d be upset, but remember that St. Francis is a dear friend, too. You know how much I enjoyed Brother Sun, Sister Moon back in the sixties. It seemed like St. Francis was the best hippie of all time! Yes, the poverty and depravation didn’t seem all that fun, but he seemed so free and so close to the God and so simple and faithful. And St. Claire was so, well, gorgeous.

Our plan is that we will meet (the three of us from caminos 2011 and 2012) In Assisi and we will then walk through sites of St. Francis, through some of his favorite villages and towns, then on to Rome. In ten days the trip follows what must’ve been his itinerary when he travelled from Assisi to Rome to explain himself to Pope Innocent III. You know the story. The Pope, who had felt threatened by the popularity of this little, impoverished friar, had a dream after seeing St. Francis. He saw the pillars of his church tumbling to the ground, except that Francis was steadying them. The pope saw the dream as a message from God that St. Francis and his focus on the poor would help his church to change and survive.

Maybe Sebastian and Jacqueline and I will have a special dream as we walk, too. I don’t know, but maybe God has some kind of vision or purpose in drawing us toward Assisi and Rome this year. I know one thing will be accomplished: we three who’ve walked together in the past will have the joy of walking together again. Also, we’ll receive a special testimonium to commemorate our walk.

But St. James, I know I will miss you. For four of the last five years I’ve walked to Santiago de Compostela. I’ve looked for you in stained glass windows and sculptures. I’ve rejoiced when I hugged your statue in the cathedral there and I’ve prayed while I peered through the glass to your sarcophagus. I will miss that this year. St. Francis calls, though, and I’m looking forward to hearing what he has to say.

Oh, more bad news. I’m going to do my best to visit St. Peter in 2014. More details to follow. In case you think we’ve forgotten you: my sister is going to see you this year. She will send you my love and prayers, and please do look after her. You know how she gets blisters.

It gives me some comfort to know that you will have many pilgrims seeing you this coming year. Please give them safe travels and warm friendships and joyful memories as you do with all your pilgrims. I will be back. I promise.

Your devoted friend,

Sandy Brown (Caminoist)

Favorite Albergues on the Camino Frances

Posted on August 19, 2012 by Sandy Brown

A request from IrishGurrl on our camino Internet forum led me to do some thinking about my favorite albergues on the Camino Frances. After several tries I came to discover the 10,000 character limit on the Forum wouldn’t allow my 29,000 character response. So I’m posting this here so that it might be of some use to future pilgrims. The links go to the helpful Consumer Eroski camino site (in Spanish). My comments are in red.

Stage 1: S. Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles

L’Esprit du Chemin. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port Many choose to stay here as they take reservations and are right in the thick of things on Rue de la Citadelle in “old” SJPP
Refuge Orisson. Uhart-Cize This is a nice albergue, but at just 10 km outside SJPP is mostly used by those who don’t want to walk the whole way to Roncesvalles. It’s the only place to stop for a late breakfast or early lunch on the Route Napoleon, so everyone comes to know it anyway.
Albergue de peregrinos de Roncesvalles. Roncesvalles (Navarra) 2008, 2012 — this is the monastery’s albergue, which has been greatly expanded and is now one of the finest albergues around. It’s in 2-3 stories, with semi-private double rooms in the top story and modern bathroom facilities. Most everyone stays here, though there are two hotels in Roncesvalles now as well.

Stage 2: Roncesvalles – Zubiri

Albergue El Palo de Avellano. Zubiri I stayed here in 2011 and found it to be a nice, private albergue, though as I recall a little more expensive than the others. It’s also around the corner and on the main (auto) route, so a little harder to find. They have a nice common meal in the evenings and modern facilities, plus computer access.

Stage 3: Zubiri – Pamplona/Iruña

Albergue de Larrasoaña. Larrasoaña (Navarra) Stayed here in 2008. A primitive, simple albergue with an annex across the street. Dormitories are blessedly small (5-6 people). Very basic. Hand laundry sink in the back yard.
Albergue de Jesús y María. Pamplona (Navarra) If I’m thinking of the right one, I know people who stayed here in 2011. In an historic building in the heart of Pamplona. Renovated, but with an open concept that means sound carries all throughout the building (= noisy). But a nice place.

Stage 4: Pamplona/Iruña – Puente la Reina/Gares

Albergue Familia Roncal. Cizur Menor (Navarra) Stayed here in 2008 and enjoyed the hospitality of the owner/hospitalero who helps pilgrims with blisters. Dormitories are 10-15 people. Nice place, and a nice alternative to staying in urban Pamplona.
Albergue Santiago Apostol. Puente La Reina (Navarra)This albergue is very large and quite a distance (1-2 km) out of town and off the actual camino track. I walked here hoping it’d be a good choice, but the distance just makes it not a great option.

Stage 5: Puente la Reina/Gares – Estella/Lizarra

Albergue Maralotx de Cirauqui. Cirauqui (Navarra) I love this little albergue and stayed here in 2008 and 2011. The hostess/owner is quite nice, has lots of good advice, and has a restaurant below the albergue with menu del peregrino and large tables that help create good pilgrim conversation. The upper porch is good for clothes washing and hanging out with pilgrims and the views from the south facing windows are gorgeous.
Hospital de Peregrinos de Estella. Estella (Navarra) Stayed in a nice hotel in Estella in 2011.

Stage 6: Estella/Lizarra – Torres del Río

Albergue Hogar Monjardín. Villamayor de Monjardín (Navarra) This is run by a Dutch (or Danish?) evangelical Christian group which puts on a nice, simple dinner and has devotions/chapel in the evening. In an historic building with simple accommodations.
Albergue Isaac Santiago. Los Arcos (Navarra) Lovely stay here in 2011. The photos don’t do it justice. Friendly hospitaleros and nice, green lawn adjacent. Close enough to heart of Los Arcos. I’d stay here again.

Stage 7: Torres del Río – Logroño

Alberguería Andrés Muñoz. Viana (Navarra) This albergue is famous for its triple decker bunk beds. Stayed here in 2008 and 2011. Right in “urban” Viana. Internet access. Lockers in rooms. Basic albergue that is nothing special but not a bad place.
Albergue de Peregrinos de Logroño. Logroño (La Rioja) Have always stayed in hotels in Logrono.

Stage 8: Logroño – Nájera

Albergue de Peregrinos de Navarrete. Navarrete (La Rioja) This is Navarette’s municipal albergue, which is 2-3 floors in an older, but renovated building. Cots in large dorm rooms. There was a long line of pilgrims waiting for beds when I arrived here in 2011 and I regret the pilgrims shoved their way into the hospitaleros’ office all hoping to be first. Don’t remember a kitchen here.
Albergue de Peregrinos de Nájera. Nájera (La Rioja) This is a notorious albergue due to its single, very large dormitory of 100 +/- beds. Location is great, but a dormitory of that size is automatically a little grim.

Stage 9: Nájera – Sto. Domingo de la Calzada

Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos de Azofra. Azofra (La Rioja) Perfectly delightful albergue with 2 beds per room, a nice person who does laundry and a fountain courtyard for sun and conversation.
Casa del Santo. Santo Domingo de la Calzada (La Rioja) Perfectly good albergue on multiple floors in the heart of SDdlC. Friends stayed here in 2011 while I chilled out in the Parador by the church, which is my stop (2008 and 2011) while in this town.

Stage 10: Sto. Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

Albergue parroquial San Juan Bautista. Grañón (La Rioja) This is the albergue-in-a-church that most people really love. I haven’t stayed here, but everyone I know who has has loved it.
Albergue municipal San Lázaro. Redecilla del Camino (Burgos)
Albergue A Santiago. Belorado (Burgos) This is a big albergue with a dining room and a swimming pool (!). I have not stayed here, but I used the computer for 1-2 hours in 2011. It’s the first albergue you come to as you enter Belorado.

Stage 11: Belorado – Agés

Albergue Parroquial de Tosantos. Tosantos (Burgos) One of my favorite albergues. Common meal that everyone helps cook, simple mats on the floor. Community meal with Taize music as background. Simple accommodations, but this is camino living at its best in my opinion. Evening chapel with prayer in many languages.
Albergue de Villafranca Montes de Oca. Villafranca Montes de Oca (Burgos) I believe this is the albergue by the side of the road that gets truck/traffic noise all night. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Stage 12: Agés – Burgos

Albergue El Peregrino. Atapuerca (Burgos) Nice, grassy lawn right on the main (and quiet) road in Atapuerca. Stayed here in 2011. Dormitories in sort of pre-fab buildings, but modernish. Not a bad place. Sunny.
Albergue La Hutte. Atapuerca (Burgos) Stayed here in 2008 and just about froze. Fortunately they provided thick quilts since there was no heat. Adjacent restaurant. A few blocks off the camino and a little more simple than my taste, unless it’s been upgraded in the last 5 years.
Albergue Municipal de Burgos. Burgos Great location in removated historic building. I always stay at the Meson del Cid very near here, but have heard good reviews of this albergue.

Stage 13: Burgos – Hontanas

Albergue Liberanos Domine. Rabé de las Calzadas In 2011 I found this to be a nice, small albergue after a short walk from Burgos. If you start from Burgos late in the day this is a good place to rest your head.
Mesón Albergue El Puntido. Hontanas (Burgos) Stayed in this rambling albergue in the semi-deserted town of Hontanas in 2008. Some private rooms. I don’t believe there is a kitchen or communal meal.

Stage 14: Hontanas – Boadilla del Camino

Hospital de Peregrinos de San Antón. Castrojeriz (3,6 km antes) This place is in the ruins of the medieval pilgrim hospital and a hauntingly interesting place to stay. I’ve walked through it and found it a little “rough” for my taste, but it would be an amazing memory for those willing to brave the lack of services.
Albergue de Castrojeriz (El Camping). Castrojeriz Just as you come into town. Looks like a campground, but also is an albergue. About 1 km from the restaurants and services of Castrojeriz. I opted not to stay here in 2011, but then found the town’s other albergues full.
Albergue de San Nicolás. Itero del Castillo (Burgos) I love this albergue. Stay here if you can get in! Only 12ish beds, I think. The Italian volunteers who run it cook a simple, communal meal and then have a footwashing ceremony. A very memorable stay!

Stage 15: Boadilla del Camino – Carrion de los Condes

Albergue de Frómista. Frómista (Palencia) Right in the heart of Fromista. Stayed here in 2008. At first was told it was full, then finally the hospitalera opened an overflow room. Not sure why I wasn’t offered a bed right away. Hand laundry and clotheslines. No kitchen that I can remember, but ample restaurants immediately adjacent. Just across from Fromista’s famous church.
Albergue Villalcázar de Sirga. Villalcázar de Sirga (Palencia) Stayed here in 2011 and enjoyed it just fine. The albergue is quite simple and there are few services in this tiny town. However, the altar pieces in the church are just amazing and well worth the 1 Euro cost of entry. These would be prized pieces in any museum in the world.

Stage 16: Carrión de los Condes – Terradillos de los Templarios

Albergue de peregrinos de Calzadilla. Calzadilla de la Cueza (Palencia) Stayed here in 2011. Swimming pool! A simple albergue with large dormitories, but the grassy lawn makes up for it. Restaurant around the corner.
Albergue de Terradillos de los Templarios (Jacques de Molay). Terradillos de los Templarios (Palencia) Stayed here in 2008. Kitchen in the albergue serves from a menu. Family owned and operated — nice folks. I’d stay here again.

Stage 17: Terradillos de los Templarios – El Burgo Ranero

Albergue de Peregrinos Cluny. Sahagun (León) Big albergue in removated older building. Friends stayed here in 2011 and liked it fine.
Albergue de Calzada del Coto. Calzada del Coto (León) Very simple and somewhat rough albergue. Chose to keep going when I passed here in 2011.
Albergue de Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. Corresponde al Municipio del Burgo Ranero (León) This was just fine and cheaper than the private albergue. Stayed here in 2011. Not memorable, but nothing wrong with it.
Albergue Bercianos. Bercianos del Real Camino Francés (León) My 2008 rest stop. Cots (not bunks) and birds nesting above the inner stairway. Had a kitchen. Big, old, mouldering kind of place. But this is the Meseta.

Stage 18: El Burgo Ranero – León

Albergue de Mansilla de las Mulas. Mansilla de las Mulas (León) Large inner courtyard makes this a special place because of all the pilgrim conversation that happens here. Rambling, older building (watch your step, watch your head), but a memorable stay. Stayed in 2008 and 2001.
Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas (Sta María de Carbajal). León I always stay at the Posada Regia hotel in Leon, but if you stay here remember that they lock you in at night before you can get out and enjoy Leon’s great nightlife! Oh, they do have a chapel service.

Stage 19: León – San Martín del Camino

Stage 20: San Martín del Camino – Astorga

Refugio Parroquial Hospital de Órbigo. Hospital de Órbigo (León) A little odd to find a big mural of the Alps here, but there’s an Alpine feeling to this albergue. Nice grassy lawn in the back. Two floors of rambling rooms in the front and single floor annex in the back. Bathrooms are oddly placed around the inner courtyard. The archetypal albergue. Stayed here 2008 and 2011.

Stage 21: Astorga – Foncebadón

Albergue de Murias de Rechivaldo. Murias de Rechivaldo (León) Friends stayed here 2011. Very simple, basic albergue on the main road (off the camino a couple of blocks)
Albergue Casa Las Águedas. Murias de Rechivaldo (León) Right on the camino. A private albergue with mid-sized dormitories, washer/dryer, snacks, restaurant. Competent private albergue. Stayed here 2011. Would stay here again.
Albergue Gaucelmo. Rabanal del Camino (León) This is the albergue of the Confraternity of St. James and is well-loved by pilgrims who stay here. Stayed here 2008 and found the British hospitaleros to be the very best. Basic, simple, perfect albergue. Don’t remember the kitchen, but ate a lovely meal across the street. Adjacent to the monastery that has nightly Vespers at 7:00.
Albergue parroquial Domus Dei. Foncebadón Stayed here in 2011 and enjoyed the Bavarian hospitaleros. The overflow room (which doubles as a chapel) is ice cold at night. Communal meal cooked by pilgrims with chapel service. Good (but cold) memories here. (Remember, Foncebadon is nearly at the top of the mountains)

Stage 22: Foncebadón – Ponferrada

Refugio de Manjarín. Manjarín (León) Some people love this place. I couldn’t get Hape Kerkeling’s review out of my mind.
Albergue de peregrinos San Nicolás de Flüe. Ponferrada (León) Huge albergue. Stayed here in 2011. Good bathroom facilities and kitchen. Ponferrada needs a small, private albergue, but there’s nothing wrong with this giant one except the size.

Stage 23: Ponferrada – Villafranca del Bierzo

Albergue de Cacabelos. Cacabelos (León) Double rooms in a semi-circle around the parish church. Not much shade, but nice to have semi-privacy. Friends have stayed here but I’ve not tried it personally as I always press on to Villafranca.
Refugio Ave Fénix de Familia Jato. Villafranca del Bierzo (León) Stayed here in 2008. Rambling kind of “hippie” place that you either love or loathe. Communal meal.
Albergue de la Piedra. Villafranca del Bierzo (León) Across the river from VdB but not too far from the heart of town.

Stage 24: Villafranca del Bierzo – O Cebreiro

Albergue de la Faba. La Faba A beloved albergue. I think it’s vegetarian, with a communal meal, but haven’t stayed here personally.
Albergue de O Cebreiro. O Cebreiro (Lugo) I always get a room at a Casa Rural here.

Stage 25: O Cebreiro – Triacastela

Stage 26: Triacastela – Sarria

Albergue del Monasterio de Samos. Samos (Lugo) This is a very simple albergue in the basement of the monastery, accessed from the main street by the monastery’s gas station. One large dormitory with murals on the walls and bunk beds. Coed bathroom. Get there early to get hot water. It’s simple, but I like this place mostly for the Vespers at the monastery each evening and the beautiful monastery tour in the afternoon.

Stage 27: Sarria – Portomarín

Albergue Mercadoiro. Mercadoiro (Lugo) Nice, grassy lawn. Stayed here in 2011 and enjoyed a meal in the restaurant of the albergue. Rambling building with small rooms and modernish bathrooms. Would stay here again.

Stage 28: Portomarín – Palas de Rei

Albergue Buen Camino. Palas de Rei (Lugo) I believe I stayed here in 2011, though the names of the various PdR albergues are a little confusing. If I’m remembering this correctly the albergue is a rabbit warren above the second floor. The Fire Dept would go crazy here as it’s easy to get lost in the little rooms and alcoves.

Stage 29: Palas de Rei – Arzúa

Albergue Ultreia. Arzúa I believe I stayed here in 2012. Also has a hostel, if I’m correct. Nice place.
Albergue Vía Lactea. Arzúa Stayed here in 2011. Room was sort of mildewy, but the kitchen and bathrooms worked out nicely. Sort of an outdoor shower. Dining room oddly placed in the front, far from the kitchen. A block or two off the camino, but a competent albergue.

Stage 30: Arzúa – Pedrouzo

I always bite the bullet and walk directly from Arzua to Santiago, so I’ve never tried any of the remaining albergues (I stay in the Altair Hotel in Santiago as a plush and comfy retreat after a long camino).

Stage 31: Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela

Albergue del Monte do Gozo. Santiago de Compostela Famous for its size — some 400 beds in quonset hut style dormitories. To me it makes sense simply to walk the rest of the way into town rather than stay here, just a few km before SdC.