June 19, 2011 Olveira to Finisterre

Posted on June 19, 2011 by Sandy Brown

: Finisterre to the left. Muxia to the right.

: Forest fire in the last few years?

: Looking down to Cee and Concurbion

: No bus, therefore a walk through Concurbion onward.

: With Luke overlooking the Cape above Finisterre

: Walking along beach into Finisterre.

Left albergue and walked to town of Hospital, last cafe before 12 km stretch of wilderness. Felt there that I couldn’t go on due to being sick and considered calling a taxi. Dragged self up hill out of Hospital and somehow managed to keep going to Cee. Catia and Jacueline caught up and had long conversation. Views of Cee and Concurbion spectacular as walked down into towns. Walk here began to make me feel I’d made the right choice, though at Cee I began to think about taking the bus to Finisterre. Learned that since it was Sunday the last bus had already passed.

Kept walking to Finisterre and finally came to Langosteire Beach, overlooking the town, still about 2 km away. Had cervesa with Catia and Jacqueline, Luke and Gal, then walked in water to Finisterre. Very sensual and beautiful with warm sun on my head. Arrived at albergue and decided to stay there. Received Fisterrana certificate and threw stuff onto my bed then set out to find Rocky. Finally found Rocky at beachfront bar with Monique.

Had long conversation and learned Sebastian would join us for drinks at Faro Lighthouse. Sebastian arrived at 21:00 and we had dinner then took a taxi to lighthouse. Watched sunset with Catia, Rocky, Monique, Sebastian. Seb and I shared last drops of Cilantro. Tears as I write this. Ultimately our group joined by another 8-10 more and much revelry and laughter.

At 23:30 time to get Seb back to his cab, so took cab back to Finisterre and had long, good bye conversation with him at waterfront, ending in long hug. After Seb’s good bye shared long goodbye conversation with Monique in which she told me I had done a good job of being a priest on the camino. Bed in albergue.

Next day: Long breakfast at street cafe including final good byes to Catia, Jacqueline, Monique and many others. Taxi return to Santiago, then dinner with Rocky, Luke, Gal, and Brooks and Jamie of Birmingham, AL. A beautiful and blessed camino 2011.

June 18, 2011 Negreira to Olveira

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Sandy Brown

Long 32 km walk to small town of Olveiroa (Galego spelling). Learned that Catia and Jacqueline were just behind us, so hoped to see them today. Had long talk with Luke about “home” and vision.

Progressively sicker with fever and head cold throughout the day. By evening I was interested only in dinner and curling up in bed. Albergue is unique — 3 buildings spread across street from each other in this exceedingly small town. Besides the two cafe/bars and the albergue there doesn’t seem to be much in this town. So it’s rather quiet and pretty delightful. No light in the bathroom, so had to shower in the dark. Tossed and turned through the night and probably kept some awake with my restlessness.

June 17, 2011 Santiago to Negreira

Posted on June 17, 2011 by Sandy Brown

: Luke and author at overlook toward Santiago

: Luke and Gal in the rain

: Luke with camino friend Gal.

Met Luke and Gal at 09:00 at Plaza Obradoiro and Luke’s experience of walking to Finisterre/Muxia in 2009 was helpful in getting out of town. Arrows actually became plentiful after a bit and before long we were on a hill opposite the cathedral with a great view.

Continued up large hill and across ancient bridge over beautiful river. Much rain and wind into Negreira. Happy to find town, but albergue was on opposite side of town and separated from all shops and restaurants by almost 1 km. Got beds at albergue and walked back to town for lunch at local restaurant. Then grocery shopping and return to albergue for showers and laundry followed later by cooking by Gal.

Vegetarian dinner by Gal was huge and delicious. Best dish was friend cauliflower. Shared dinner with Matthieu and enjoyed wine and conversation. Shower and bed in room with 10-12 single beds. Quiet night.

June 16, 2011 Santiago Rest Day

Posted on June 16, 2011 by Sandy Brown

Occupy Santiago tents set up in Plaza Obradoiro

Slept in late, then headed to Plaza Obradoiro to see pilgrims arrive. Heard joyful sounds of pilgrim family and turned around to see them arriving — Sebastian, Alex, Andreas, Catia, Annina, Nikki – many hugs, then led them to the cathedral office and on to mass. Attended mass together and locked arms after communion. Botafumeiro was spectacular. Mass full of joy — priest blessed us with thumb in cross on forehead. All very touching and a great liturgical close to our camino. Left the group so they could find their albergue and spent next couple of hours greeting incoming pilgrims including:

Roberto of Mexico — with wife and sister, staying at my hotel!
Natalie and Susan of Spokane
Christina and Meg Rayne of Boston
Addison and Alexa of Seattle
Joy and Joanne of Vancouver
many others.

Then nap at hotel room. Agreed that our pilgrim family would get together at 20:00 for dinner. Arranged to eat at same restaurant as last night with Luke and Gal.

Dinner with the family

Met our family plus 2 Germans — Eike and Simone — at restaurant. Andreas performed German Nazi/Swedish/Finn sketch to great effect. Poor food, but shots of house specialty afterward set everything right. Went out to street to hear Luke then Andreas play guitar and sing. It was awkward to sit in the middle of this pedestrian road, but no one wanted to say good. Finally said our goodbyes for last time, then off to bed to rest for tomorrow’s walk to Finisterre.

Pilgrim family in front of cathedral at Santiago. From left: Catia, Alex, Nikki, Andreas, author, Sebastian, Annina

June 15, 2011 Arzua to Santiago de Compostela

Posted on June 15, 2011 by Sandy Brown

Awoke at 06:30 and began to pack at 07:00. Andreas insisted on cooking eggs for us — what a sweetie. Done with eggs and conversation at 07:30. Got mini pack from Annina. Hannes of Germany asked “What do you carry in that, your cosmetics?” Big laughs. Left my pack at the albergue door for the pack service and left with jacqueline for long walk (40+ km) to Santiago at 07:45.

Leapfrogged most of day with Addison and Alexa, and also with Pieter of Austria, whom I found to be pleasant and humble. Saw Roberto of Mexico! Could not believe my eyes. He had sent his cousin home as she could not handle the exertion. Lunch at O Pedrouzo, then long slog through farms and the endless Santiago airport until finally reached Monte de Gozo. Had heard from Stefan of South Africa that he was leaving at 18:30 so rushed to get to Santiago by 18:00. Had also heard from Luke that her was ill with sinus infection and diarrhea, so advised him to go to Farmacia/clinic on arrival by bus in Santiago.

Arrived at 18:00 in Santiago and talked and walked with Stefan. Heard Stefan’s good and important ideas about religious faith and encourage him to write his book. Realized that Stefan thinks I am a conservative Christian — I should send him a book by Marcus Borg about new views of Christianity and I think he will be surprised and interested in a different perspective on Christian faith.

As dropped off backpack with Stefan at my hotel saw Christina and Meg (Meg Rayne). They were happy and playful and I would have loved to visit more with them. Truly two very beautiful people. Also saw Jacqueline who was behind by only 20 minutes or so. Said a very sad “good bye” to Stefan, my dear pilgrim friend from 2008 as he got in his taxi to the airport. He is a dear person and much fun and inspiration to be with. Arranged dinner with Luke and Gal.

At dinner heard Luke’s many stories and really enjoyed together time with the two of them. Off to Hotel Altair for quiet night’s rest.

Arrival in Santiago.

June 14, 2011 Melide to Arzua

Posted on June 14, 2011 by Sandy Brown

Alexa and Addison of Seattle, surprise Americans discovered in Arzua.

Agreed last night with pilgrim family to meet them at 11:00 in Melide. Relaxed at hotel, recharged phone with money, went to cash machine. Arrived at restaurant and waited only 10-15 minutes. Group arrived, many pictures, much conversation. Catia only one to order pulpo.

Left restaurant and began short walk to Arzua. Long talks with Catia and Sebastian. Said goodbye to Catia at Ribadiso. She will wait there for Bea and they will walk together into Santiago. Sad to say goodbye as may not see her again.

Walked into Arzua and found albergue after albergue “completo.” Finally found “Albergue Via Lactea” with room for all of us and kitchen. There met Addison and Alexa of Seattle — a very big surprise to find Seattleites here on the camino. They work at Nilson’s Bakery on Lower Queen Anne Hill, perhaps 1/4 mile from my office.

Andreas and Annina cooked rice/veg dinner and we ate together in front room of albergue with wine, laughter and storytelling. Jacqueline and I both decided to walk full distance to Santiago next day and I arranged to have my pack sent ahead. This will allow us a rest day in Santiago and I can stay in my favorite hotel an extra night.

June 13, 2011 Palas de Rei to Melide

Posted on June 13, 2011 by Sandy Brown

: Happy Santiago Peregrino at Melide chapel

: Pilgrim family at restaurant in Palas de Rei. Clockwise from left: Sebastian, Annina, Alexandre, Catia, Jacqueline, Nikki, Andreas.

: Arujo cheers!

Left late after talking with Sebastian on Jacqueline’s phone at panaderia across from albergue. They are to be in Palas de Rei tonight, so texted them later that I would taxi back with Jacqueline and meet them for dinner there. Walked quickly to Melide for lunch there with Stefan of South Africa and his friend.

At pulperia in Melide Stefan shared full spiritual concepts he had been developing since reading Eckhardt Tolle. He has some extremely good ideas. I suggested he read Thomas Merton, Thich Nhat Hanh and Anthony de Mello. I hope he will write his story in order to publicize these great ideas.

After lunch got a room at same hotel where Gail and I had stayed in 2008, just across from the albergue. Looking this afternoon for peluqueria for haircut after shower. Then taxi to Palas de Rei. Nice hotel room – Chiquitin is the hotel.

As opened door to taxi in Palas de Rei all pilgrim family was there to cheer and hug. Dinner at same restaurant as last night. Many stories, much joking and round of arujo on me. At dinner was whole gang, less Bea. Beautiful pilgrim family moment.

After dinner asked restaurant to call taxi for return trip to Melide, but no taxi available. Waiter drove us back instead. Paid him 20€ for his kindness and gave many thanks. Though he and the restaurant staff had been a little gruff with our pilgrim family, he turned out to be very gracious in getting us back to Melide.

June 12, 2011 Mercadoiro to Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Posted on June 13, 2011 by Sandy Brown

Entry to Portomarin -- low water reveals older bridge into town.

Walked the 6.7 km to Portomarin and there saw Heidi, Beata and Joy of Australia. Went into church for sello when opened at 10:00 then stood with the three to visit and there had unusual experience of receiving sudden flood of unwelcome advice: “A Camelbak is no good, it gets dirty” (Beatta), “It holds too much water; you can die from drinking too much water” (Joy), “The pretty shell from your wife is too heavy to carry” (Joy), “You need to press the 4-leaf clover you were given or it will turn brown.”

I decided my response would be to receive last bit of advice, but in response to Joy give her a hug to let her know I loved her even though she was “having a bad day.” Couldn’t help but think that a trio of people such as this gave Shakespeare his idea for the three witches in Macbeth. Ah, after three caminos I’m becoming too proud.

Left Portomarin (and the three women) and walked with Jacqueline at Austrian pace straight to Palas de Rei. Found place at private albergue that was rabbit warren inside and headed to church for Pentecost evening mass. Agreed to meet Stefan of South Africa, also in town, for dinner and discussion. Dinner with Stefan and Jesús of Pamplona at restaurant above albergue. Great to see Stefan again and to enjoy his teasing and passion. Off to bed after texting Sebastian and Catia and Andreas and Luke/Rocky our whereabouts.

June 11, 2011 Samos to Mercadoiro

Posted on June 12, 2011 by Sandy Brown

Jacqueline, a blur from behind, as I usually saw her. Walking the "Austrian pace."

Left the Samos monastery albergue and had toast for breakfast across the street. Then walked without yellow arrows from memory out of Samos. Somehow many of the directions from/to Samos have been intentionally obscured by someone. Met Oussie of Hungary at the option (i.e. the fork in the camino) and she suggested the longer route via woods and farms to Sarria. She gave a four-leaf clover she had found as remembrance. Very sweet girl; one of those camino people I wished I’d spent more time with.

I took her route and enjoyed the beauty of green. Many ups and downs, though. Then finally hit road to Sarria. Met the older Brazilian couple at coffee (remembered them from Foncebadon) who mentioned that Alexandre was behind them. Continued to Sarria and met mother/son duo — Deirdre and Patrick of Ireland. Patrick is moving to Seattle in October to work for Microsoft. Debating about living in Redmond, Bellevue, or Kirkland. Asked at albergue at top of stairs for cell phone store to recharge phone with money and waited at Movistar store for probably an hour during lunchtime to be helped. Put 30€ on the phone.

Left Sarria and walked with So. African man, part of a larger So. African group, to Barbadello where I was delighted to meet Jacqueline. Walked with her to Mercadoiro, just shy of Portomarin. Opted to stay at Mercadoiro for total kms of 32.5 that day. Nice dinner with Sven and Britta of Germany, then drinks with Heidi, Beata and a Dane. Lots of laughter, with Beata constantly apologizing for her German and me teasing Dane for actually being Dutch. This is a nice albergue, with a sort of ramshackle layout but rooms no larger than 5-6 beds, each room with stone walls.

June 10, 2011 O Cebreiro to Samos

Posted on June 10, 2011 by Sandy Brown

: Author at Alto de Poio

: Vistas into Galicia from hills above Triacastela

: Pilgrim poem.

Out the door of my room at a private home at 07:30; had breakfast at the same restaurant as last night’s dinner, and off on long walk to Samos. Walked down to Triacastela by myself. This downhill stretch is definitely a challenge. Then met Rosemary of San Diego and walked with her part of way to Samos. Met Karl of Ventura CA at Alto de Poio and revealed my new plan to follow through on my idea to write a camino murder mystery. Central figure would be a Catholic priest struggling with his vocation who walks the camino. First day out of St. Jean 2 Israeli hikers killed by hanging — using sailing knots. Group including priest and German firefighter and German school teacher try to solve mystery that hinges on who among 10 people that passed through cabin at top of Route Napoleon is the actual killer. Thought long through the day of Catholic priests’ inner struggles made harder when he meets his alter ego — a good looking Methodist minister/camino regular who seems to have it all under control.

Arrived Samos to stay at albergue in monastery. Albergue 1/2 full in basement of monastery. Spanish tour of the monastery at 17:30 then Vespers with loud pipe organ at 19:30. Kurt from Ventura there as well as Mishael — otherwise no one I knew. So no need to socialize which is a little bit of a relief after so much visiting over so many days. Instead checked email and got an early start to bed. Cold showers as the albergue had run out of water some time, maybe years ago. Paintings on the wall are primitive, but somehow it feels nice to fall asleep in a monastery.