Category Archives: Camino del Norte 2012

May 22, 2011 Azofra to Santo Domingo

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The landscape that became a painting that became a landscape.

Slept in late at Sebastian’s request and met Jahn at door of albergue at 09:00. Had a lovely, long talk with Jahn and Sebastian all the way to Ciruena. Met Kim and Janey just before Ciruena at a rest stop atop a large hill. Janey had bought new boots in Logrono and was now much happier with her camino.

Arrived Ciruena at 10:55 to sound of church bells so let Jahn and Sebastian and spent next 1/2 hour at simple mass in parish church. Exuberant singing from female congregants in front. Group of 10 seemingly Spanish men sat silently in rear of church. Many “Buen caminos” to me on the way out. Bar for tortilla and cafe con leche then on to Santo Domingo.

Outside Ciruena found camino landscape from my painting efforts. Too several photos and realized I had the unusual experience of walking through a painting. On way out of valley realized that Sheila was ahead and slowly caught up to her. Had nice conversation about church and singing. Had realized that “Lord, You Have Come to the Lakeshore” had been sung as closing song at mass. Sheila explained this was an important song in her spiritual development. “While smiling have spoken my name…” was key line for her.

Arrived Santo Domingo de la Calzada to see a smiling Sebastian and find Rocky waiting for me at the Parador. Nice room overlooking a small courtyard. Excellent bathroom. Scheduled for dinner at 18:00. Mass in cathedral at 20:00. Sitting under cloudy skies in modern main street. Weather cool.

Realizing now that there are reveal approaches to spirituality on the camino:

  • Ordeal — struggle through aches/pains and blisters to cover difficult miles to completion
  • Sacrament — the way is full of natural beauty
  • Community — the highlight is other people. They are precious and conversation is most important
  • Religion — going to mass, viewing churches
  • Cultural/Language — the joy of immersing oneself in a different people
  • Exercise — “Hey, look how tough I am. I did 37 km today”
  • Adventure — What is over the next hill? What amazing things will I see?

Sat at table on camino and enjoyed passing parade of pilgrims. Some new faces: Guido of Italy; Carmen of Slovenia, Odd of France. Dinner at restaurant off small square with Rocky, Sheila, Janey, Kim, Joanne, Sebastian. After dinner decided to rest my blister with one more night at the Parador so said goodbye to Sebastian and Jahn at door of cathedral.

May 21, 2011 Navarette to Azofra

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Agreed with Sebastian to meet at 07:30 to walk to Azofra. We talked and walked all day and had a super time. Sebastian described a difficult situation and how he would let this go at Cruce de Ferro.

We met two Spanish men whistling Opera (Carmen) and sang and danced with them. At Ventosa we had coffee with Joanne and Joy of Vancouver. Sadie of Canada was just leaving and she told me I was known as “Rocky’s brother” among pilgrims. This struck me as very odd — it was never that way growing up.

Off to Najera where we met the tall German kid having coffee with Cloud and her Essex boyfriend. Cloud bought me a beer. Very nice! Sebastian and I bought a liquor called “Cilantro” after seeing 4-5 men in the table next to us drinking this yellow, oil liquid from a large, plastic bottle. They shared some with us and we asked if we could buy a bottle. Soon one of them had sent off and had 2 bottles at 17E each to sell us. Very heavy glass in our backpacks.

We happily skipped along to Azofra, meeting Nikki and her German friend along the way. Sat in the courtyard of the very nice albergue (2 person rooms) and sipped on my bottle of the cilantro with Rocky, Joanne, Kat, and many others. Had was done by the hospitalera and then headed to dinner, which was loud and fun and in the street with Sebastian, Rocky, Joanne, Kat, Debbie of Ottawa, and me. Roomed with Sebastian and had a good night’s sleep.

May 20, 2011 Viana to Navarette

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Agreed to meet at 07:30 with Monique to walk and talk about why she had cried at Mass last night in Viana. She described it as a snake shedding its skin, which is painful and also the next important and beautiful part of its life. We walked to Logrono and at the house of Feliza we met Sebastian, the fun German from Cologne. When we got to Logrono we sat for coffee at the cafe/bar by the legislative building and there had a nice chat also with Sebastian. Soon it was time to say goodbye to Monique, who was very sad to part. I felt it was a blessing to have Sebastian with me (also Flaurent, the French who had walked from Vezelay) and we came to Navarette together.

Navarette held no memories for me whatsoever. Am wondering if I somehow had skipped this town in 2008 by walking on the road or something. Rocky had bused there and was waiting at the front door of the albergue with about 20 others who promptly pushed and shoved to get ahead of their fellow pilgrims. There were plenty of beds and I was assigned a cot in the attic. In the room were Nikki of Australia and Flaurent of France as well. Flaurent and i had a long conversation about the Chemin de Vezelay and he gave me his heavy Vezelay guidebook materials. Am wondering now what to do with them … all in French and also very detailed… and heavy.

Had a good sleep after a dinner with Rocky and Sebastian.

May 19, 2011 Los Arcos to Viana

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Arrived Villamayor and found Monique. Walked with her and talked of her past relationship and plans for study in acupuncture. Arrived in Viana with her. She was tired and tense, tried to cajole her toward happiness, but not having a room for the night made her justifiable tense.

Night in Viana albergue. Met Sebastian there, a German firefighter at sink in men’s room. Dinner with Monique, Arlene, Sheila where we talked about why we’re each doing the camino.

May 18, 2011 Estella to Los Arcos

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Walked out of hotel to find camino and who should be there but Luke and the two girls. Talked to them to see how Luke’s knee was doing. He was carrying his guitar which hopefully is becoming easier to manage. Saw Renee at the same time. She was heading to store and ultimately this was the last I would see of her on the camino.

Set off alone for Villamayor and there met Monique. Walked with her through beautiful green fields to Los Arcos where we found Rocky. Stayed at municipal albergue where saw Joanne and Kat, Roberto and Philippe, and many others. Walked much of day with Dave of Canada, so invited him to dinner with Rocky, Monique and I at Restaurante Museo del Peregrino.

Dave is a tech consultant (retired) who started a company and turned around another company in Canada, apparently leaving him fairly wealthy. His wife was born in Leon and had died of cancer in 2005, which led him to the camino to get in touch with her memory. He met a German woman here on his last camino and was married. In process of divorce from her now.

May 17, 2011 Cirauqui to Estella

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People began rustling around the albergue at 06:00 and a Korean girl turned on the light (not good pilgrim etiquette) at 06:15. I managed to stay in bed until 06:30 then up and out at 07:00 (early for me). I enjoyed a slow walk to Estella. Met Sheila from San Francisco and sat for a bit with Roberto of Italy, Felipe of France (had met him with Roberto at the top of Col Orisson) and Ariel of Netherlands at a park as I came into Estella. The dog’s name is Ma-at and is 8 months old, with one month of his life spent on the walk with Philippe from Le Puy in France to Estella. So that dog had something like 1000 km already on his odometer.

I bought a phone in town and then went to find the Internet at the local library so I could send an email to Rock and Luke with my new phone number. I decided to stay at swanky hotel here to unwind and knew that Rocky, who I though I’d see here, would appreciate that. Waiting for her at Plaza Mayor 12:45.

Just now starting to get into the camino spirit. Could be the cervesa I’m enjoying, but am recognizing there’s really no need to rush and that every day holds its charms. I’ve decided to let go of my anxiety about where Luke is and how Rocky is. They’re both adults and going at their own pace. I’m appreciating Estella now. Charming town with narrow Calle Mayor and older people who look grim, but hard to protest with beautiful weather. The Plaza Mayor is dominated by a large Romanesque revival church with two towers and the place, which I’d walked by but not through in 2008, has its charms.

Had dinner after finding Luke, who had taken bus to Estella and was waiting for Gal and Lila at the municipal albergue. Earlier I’d had nice visit with Luke, Robert and Philippe at park. Night at nice hotel. Rocky, I just learned, had gone on to Los Arcos for blister care and rest, so she’s now ahead. I slept quiet night by myself at Chapitel Hotel just below the grand citadel/church above city. Would happily recommend this boutique hotel to pilgrims stopping in Estella. A charming, older building with an ultra-modern interior.

May 16, 2011 Puenta la Reina to Cirauqui

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Church door near Cirauqui

Slept until 08:30, then downstairs to have breakfast and meet with Luke and make plans. Went to Farmacia with him, bought his drugs and some white tape for my toes, which had developed blisters. Decided Luke would stay at PLR with Gal and Lila, rest a day, make plans, and then connect via Internet/cell to stay in touch. Recognizing his slower pace and his growing interest in the two young ladies I realized I potentially will not see him until journey’s end at Santiago.

Decided on a short walk today in order to slow down, relax a bit, and enjoy one of my favorite little towns. So I walked only 7.5 km to Cirauqui and am on porch overlooking church as I write this, visiting with Kim and Janie from Arkansas. Very nice day with clear blue sky. Cool breeze. I washed laundry then wandered the town. Found bowl of fish soup at bar feeding about 20 workmen. Good soup with lots of bread to dip. Back to albergue for laundry and conversation, then Mass at the church at 19:00. Energetic and enthusiastic older priest who seemed much loved by the elderly ladies.

Dinner at 19:30. At first I was nervous that there were few English speakers at table. Kim, Janey and me, plus 3 Basques, one Korean, one Hungarian. The Basques were very interested in talking, so I had my first experience as an interpreter. The Basques were curious why I had done so many caminos. Told them I was a priest and a friend of Santo Santiago. The middle one said, “Es claro!” After a great dinner and enthusiastic conversation headed to bed in the same bunk I’d enjoyed 3 years earlier — looking out toward the south, seeing nothing but green hills with vineyards in the distance. Cirauqui was great international experience. Met Americans, Dutch, German, Korean, Spanish, British, Hungarian, French.

May 15, 2011 Pamplona to Puente la Reina

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At Pamplona last night I’d made a plan with the others to walk to Puente la Reina and meet at 19:00 at the famous bridge for which the town is named. I worried about Luke being able to make this walk, as his knee was swollen and painful.

Once again I found myself unprepared for a Sunday, the day of the week in which shops open late or not at all. So I left the hotel at about 08:00 with no food or water. Toward the outskirts of town I found a news kiosk opening and bought 4×0.25 liters of water plus 2 sugar donuts. I wolfed down the donuts (guiltily of course) and walked to outskirts of town where I found a baker with some much-loved chocolate croissants (whew), and then I headed for the climb up to Alto de Perdon.

A large group of Spanish schoolchildren of about 10 years of age were walking along, unintentionally accompanying a stream of pilgrims up the hill. I tried to engage some in conversation but they had been well taught not to talk to strangers. I met a tall Dutchman (Marty?), a nice Italian who loves American music and a New Age Portuguese man who I remember as having been drying his red shirt back at the Roncesvalles albergue’s bathroom. I made the top of Alto de Perdon with the Italian fellow. On the way up I also met a nice Danish pair — two women +/- 50 years old — who needed help with their camera and gave me 1/2 sandwich since I had no food.

Walking out of Pamplona

I continued on to Uterga and Obanos but first made a diversion to Eunate and enjoyed new friends Kim and Janie of Arkansas and James and Laurel of New Hampshire. We laid in sunshine on the grass together and talked about home. Eunate was locked shut but the hospitalero of the adjacent albergue opened it for a few minutes every hour or so. I walked on to Obano by myself until meeting three Koreans approaching Puente la Reina. I arrived at PLR and heard a shout from across street, and there was Rocky getting out of car. She had hitched a ride over Alto de Perdon and also from Obanos to PLR. We walked together past the albergue, went to bridge to find the other albergue across river and saw Luke already waiting for us — sleeping on a bench at the famous bridge. He had taken a bus to PLR and Gal and Lila had walked. Luke’s knee was still hurting, so we strategized about how to get him to a doc. I decided to get a hotel for us and found one in the middle of Calle Mayor. I asked at the desk about a local doc and they called and directed us to nearby clinic. The Doc examined Luke via touch and sight and pronounced that he needed a shot of toradol and a prescription for naproxin. Had dinner at hotel with Canadian couple — she a retired teacher and he retired from a hiking tour company. I’m the one walking pilgrim from our little pilgrim family right now and am hoping that Rocky will get stronger and Luke will heal.

May 14, 2011 Zubiri to Pamplona

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Last night Luke finally arrived at about 20:00 with Gal and Lila. They were unworried about a bed for the night, so it was just as well that Rocky had reserved at the Palo Avellano. They were appreciative and we threw our packs onto the beds and headed for the albergue dining room for a nice pilgrim dinner.

Monique, Roberto and Martin (plus another woman) from behind near Larrasoana.

Woke up at 06:00 after a good night’s sleep and had breakfast with several French folks. Good spirits all around. Discovered I had left my boots at another albergue we’d investigated and was very concerned until I saw them through the window of the other albergue. Waited for the albergue to open and grabbed my boots. Left Zubiri at 08:00ish in light rain.

Walked briskly to Larrasoaña, enjoying a brief conversation with Monique of Switzerland. Between Zubiri and Larrasoaña are many good gravel paths through woods. After Larrasoaña the paths have been “improved” into concrete sidewalks which now were very slippery due to rain.

I saw man with blowing parka on road ahead and helped him pin it down as I passed. Francisco was his name and we had a good, long conversation about literature — he loves to read American lit in Italian. His billowing parka is an example of how the apparent advantage of parkas turns into a disadvantage with the least bit of wind.

Left him at a rest stop where I met Renee, my clergy acquaintance, and her friend Carrie. Also there was Kat of UK from the Forum and her mother, Joanne. I left some time after Renee and passed her on muddy path above the rest stop. Continued on and met 3 Japanese men, one with a Mt. Rainier medallion. Then on to Pamplona.

Had made arrangements with Luke and Rocky to meet at Pamplona City Hall at 20:00 to share hotel reservation plans and meet for dinner. Got to Pamplona early (14:00) and walked around, trying to find Internet w/o luck. Heard whistle across Plaza de Castillo and saw Rocky and Luke — somehow they’d both beaten me here, though I’d never seen them pass me. I learned later that Rocky had taken a bus partway and Luke had hitchhiked from Larrasoaña due to his bad need.

Rocky had taken a bus to Pamplona and Luke had hitched a ride from Larrasoana after injuring his knee from walking. We started work on getting ibuprofen for Luke but all the drug stores were closed. We found one and got his drugs. Had 21:00 dinner with Luke and Gal and Lila at great vegetarian restaurant and saw Francisco there. Off to bed at a hotel Rocky had found. Ahhhh, rest. I slept very well.

May 13, 2011 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

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Albergue lights turn themselves on promptly at 07:00, so I guess it’s time to get up here at Roncesvalles. In reality I’m already awake after a largely sleepless night. In a “double room” (2 beds, 1/2 height walls) with Lila. Rocky and Luke in another double on one side, Doron and Yael on other side. Our group slowly started getting up, then the hospitalero announced everyone needed to be out by 08:00 for cleaning. We all eventually headed out the door to Cafe Sabina for desayuno. On the road again at about 09:00. Walked with Lila first, then by myself to Burguete. We all stopped at an alimentation for fruit, then I left the group and walked on ahead. This was the last I saw Luke for most of the day.

Church at Burguete

Church at Burguete

After a time I met Roberto of Mexico and walked with him and Kathy most of the rest of day. Arrived in Zubiri at 16:30 and had agreed with Rocky to rendezvous here, so I waited on the bridge for her to arrive — which she did two hours later at 18:30. She’d had two very long days for a first-time pilgrim and she was surprisingly cheerful, but also relieved the day’s walking was done.

Sat down to write impatiently in my journal while awaiting Luke. As bikers and walking pilgrims passed I kept asking, “have you seen a guy carrying a guitar with a few Israelis and a Canadian?” After a time I heard reports he was behind us with 2 girls, drinking coffee under the trees.

While waiting saw Rev. Renee from Nebraska whom I’d met on the Camino Forum. We had good conversation about the camino and spirituality. She is staying at the pension at the bridge. Once we heard Luke was behind us Rocky and I made reservations for 5 people at the albergue — after learning that 2 albergues and all hotels are complete.

This was a hard day. Little sleep last night means I was mentally tired. Legs are ok, but toenails are too long and sharp sides dug into two toes, meaning bloody sock liners and need for bandages later. Also, weather is warm — 70-75 degrees, so I needed lots of water. Partly, too, I was frustrated to be in a group whose members each had such a different pace, which meant a lot of waiting rather than walking or resting. Gonna have to find a way to make this work.