Rainy days and Sundays, always going down

Contrasts — blackened trees from a previous forest fire grow in the rainy mist.

Day Seven: Santuario Della Verna to Pieve Santo Stefano — 15km (9.3 miles)

We woke up this morning to a “gully washer,” which in Northwest parlance means a torrential downpour of rain. I couldn’t imagine walking down the steep hill — or even being outside for more than a few minutes– but by 9:00 the rain had settled into a steady drizzle. Several of our group opted to take the van downhill, while the rest (ok, Gary and me) braved the elements and walked the 600m (1800 ft) descent. Those who were driven downhill had the added treat of touring the nearby birthplace of Michelangelo. After the descent I scouted out a track revision for tomorrow and posted the update on my blog and in our Facebook group. Tomorrow’s weather looks to be sunny and mild.

Gary poses by the La Verna statue of the Saint and the dove seller.

Today the paths did double duty as creeks.

Misty, autumnal pathways in the high forests.

Views opened up as we dipped below cloud level.

Soon we saw Pieve Santo Stefano below.

Views toward Caprese Michelangelo and La Rocca.

Pieve Santo Stefano decked out for a festival.

Gary and I pose for a selfie as we arrive — safe, sound and soaked — at our hotel.

Athletic climb to a holy place

One of the few downhill stretches in this uphill day.

Day Six: Badia Prataglia to Santuario della Verna — 17.3 km (10.8 miles)

A very vertical day. Our group split in two, with four starting partway through and five walking the whole thing. The distance is deceiving — this is one of the very hardest days on any Camino I’ve ever walked. Two major mountains with around 3500 feet elevation gain — but we all did fine. Have now met total of 14 other pilgrims — today five Americans and three Brits.

These are our mountain trails.

Happy uphill pilgrims: Beth, Kim, Donna, Sue.

The view, ten minutes after leaving Rimbocchi.

Our lofty goal: Santuario Della Verna atop Monte Penna.

Gary walking through the fairytale forest.

And suddenly there is a convent atop the mountain.

Four hundred floors and 5000 calories later we arrive in one of Italy’s most holy places.

Restful day in the sacred forest

I declare this to be a Leopard Lizard. OK, it’s actually a Fire Salamander.

Day five: Camaldoli to Badia Prataglia 10.6 km (6.6 miles)

Some thundershowers brought rain and made walking a cool and damp delight. We made an intentionally late start so we could enjoy Camaldoli monastery a little longer, then we trudged up and down through the Sacred Forests to quiet Badia Prataglia. Tomorrow is the big climb to La Verna.

Pilgrim lineup.

This is exactly how today looked.

This too.

We stay overnight tomorrow at the big, squarish mountain in the distance.

Little Badia Prataglia.

Revised route from Pieve Santo Stefano to Sansepolcro

Carol Sammet’s proposed route is the dotted line above, CAI 22.

Back in 2014 when I researched the route from Pieve Santo Stefano to Sansepolcro I recognized that the biggest challenge was how to reduce the 37km distance of this stage in the official Via di Francesco trail. I talked to locals who told me of the path behind the Euro Hotel that easily connected to the official Cammino di Assisi route for a 25km total to Sansepolcro. I walked it and a couple of other variants and chose the Euro Hotel route with its shaded and gentle grade among young trees with the Tiber River, a wide creek this far north, babbling joyfully below.

Sadly, in 2015 this lovely route was completely logged and all that remained was a narrow path in daylight on a steep bank slowly being choked by weeds. Pilgrims began to report difficulties and dangers as the rains slowly washed away what had once been a gentle and picturesque trail.

Pilgrim Carol Sammet wrote this to me two days ago:

Sandy, we tried to walk today the route from pieve Santo to sansepolcro and found it too dangerous. We found out later you need to pick up CA 22 at the first tunnel under the bridge rather than the trail behind hotel Euro.

In a few days I’ll confirm Carol’s suggestion and make an official revision to my guidebook along with a revised GPX track. But in the meantime I offer Carol’s recommendation to all who are presently in the trail.

As I’ve often said, it takes a village to make a guidebook. Thanks always to everyone whose comments are helping to improve our route.

Here’s how the proposed revision looks on the guidebook map p. 96.

Up and up to Camaldoli hermitage and monastery

Looking back toward Stia and the Upper Arno Valley

Day four: Stia to Camaldoli — 21.8 km (13.5 miles)

Passport lost and found, mountain climbed, hermitage and monastery explored. We arrived Camaldoli village about 3:15 and are settling into this green and peaceful paradise.

Our group gathers at Madonna del Poggio for our daily group shot.

Above the Franciscan convent above Stia.

Huge view.

Climbing.

After the climb a gentle road.

Luke surveys the town before we leave.

Things change in three years

Photo op at castle viewpoint.

Day three: Consuma to Stia — 16.9 km (10.5 miles)

A good day of walking. After Castel Castagnaio we discovered the official path has changed. It’s well-marked and good, so I’ll update my book with the new path and its revised entry to Stia. Everyone walked the whole way and is well and we’ve seen five other pilgrims in the last two days.

Group pic as we leave Consuma.

Looking out from the top of the Pass.

New Tau marks are a great improvement!

Castle and mountains.

The new route.

Donkeyville.

Stia panorama.

Vineyard art forest walk

Donna, Alma and Halldora in the woods

Day two: Pontassieve to Consuma: 17.8 km (10.7 miles)

A deceptively challenging day. First half up and up through vineyards. Second half up and up through shady forests. In between a delightful visit to the Santa Maria di Ferrano art colony. All our pilgrims did very well.

Start of the day in Pontassieve.

Panorama over Frescobaldi vineyards.

With new friend Rev Thomas Müller.

Random castle.

Thomas describes Santa Maria’s mission.

Gary placing markers.

Forested walk.

Under the Tuscan sunshine

Our group of intrepid walkers from left: Me, Gary, Donna, Beth, Inger, Alma, Halldora, Kim, Sue

Day One: Florence to Pontassieve – 28.1 km (17.5 miles)

Here are some pics from today’s walk. Lovely weather — perfect for trekking. Left Florence at 8:15, arrived Pontassieve at 3:15  and lost no one. Oops, better count.

G’bye Duomo.

Piazza Della Libertà

Uphill.

Downhill.

Riverside.

Massive doors of Basilica Santa Croce, plus our group.